The Big "Burj"

No travel blog would be complete without a post about the Burj Khalifa (f.k.a. Burj Dubai). It took the crown recently as the tallest building...nay, tallest structure of any kind...in the world. I was quite fascinated by something this notable.

We drove past the Burj Khalifa several times on Sheikh Zayed Road that ran by only a few blocks away....and quite frankly, it didn't seem all that big to me from that vantage point. Only when we stopped off to see it up close....once at night, another during the day....did its immense size really reveal itself. It's really quite a challenge to get a decent picture of it when you're standing that close. In this post are the two best close-up photos we could come up with.

I'm sure there are places around Dubai that offered a better photo op of the building than we ever had, but we didn't find those places. Still, the experience of seeing it up close was pretty awesome. It was hard for me not to keep staring at it any chance I got.

There are opportunities for visitors to go up the Burj Khalifa, but they require advanced purchase of around $30 at schedule times (unless you pay $110 to get in immediately). Needless to say, we didn't go up.

I noticed a few oddities during our up-close visits to the Burj Khalifa. One, there was still tape stretched around the block the Burj was situated, cordoning off any access to the general public. Two, other than construction workers, there was no pedestrian traffic in or out of the building that I could see. Three, I noticed at night that the building wasn't very well-lit, compared to other buildings nearby. With the recent economic problems plaguing Dubai, it made me wonder whether anyone could afford to rent the place now, unlike the times when ground was first broken years ago. Maybe it still wasn't ready....but then why the huge fanfare opening on Jan 4? Was anyone actually using the place? "K" mentioned that the Abu Dhabi ruler after whom the building was named wasn't present at the Burj's inauguration ceremony, which was rather embarrassing for Dubai. The circumstances surrounding the completion of this incredible structure seem muddled in uncertainties.

I was reminded of a friend commenting to me during a visit to Kuala Lumpur that the Petronas Towers had trouble attracting tenants for a long time, cynically suggesting these buildings were built more for Babel-like pride and ego than for commercial practicality. I'm sure more than a few people have thought that about the Burj Khalifa.

It certainly is a architectural sight to behold, this king of skycrapers. Still, bystander admiration doesn't pay rent. Time will tell if the Burj Khalifa will be worth what it cost Dubai.

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UPDATE (Mar 2010): Evidently, the Burj Khalifa observation deck was closed indefinitely due to "power supply problems", just one day after we left Dubai. Another article reports that there was an elevator malfunction....scary. Still doesn't totally explain the observations I had before the ob deck closed down.

Sunday...it's back to work

So, it's Sunday here...we're leaving Dubai this evening. Our hosts are back to work today, but their daughter took us around. Things to do:
Ride the "light rail"
Try to get as close to the Burj Dubai as possible
Eat some more middle-eastern food
Shop for souvenirs
Pack
Visit the Gold Souk (market)

The metro rail was all above ground - pretty cool and very smooth. I guess that's what you get when you have money, unlike the crazy at-grade rail we have in S.Seattle. Their metro stations reminded me a lot of the ones we had in Hong Kong and Guangzhou...very nice. Also, you're not allowed to eat/drink on the train. If they catch you, you're fined like 2-300 AED (that's almost $100) - they're pretty serious about keeping this thing clean. I say, good for them.

We were able to walk up to the area around the Burj, but there's still some landscaping work to be done, so a lot of it was roped off. I think you need a decent amount of moola to even get close to it. Oh well, we got a couple good shots.

We also visited a couple places that are great for souvenir shopping...Karama Market and the Gold Souk. I wish we had more time there, but maybe it was good that we didn't...i can see myself spending a lot of time and possibly money. Karama Market reminded me a lot of Hong Kong with peddlers trying to sell stuff like purses, perfumes, watches, etc. The Gold Souk reminded me more of the night market in Thailand. There were different concentrations like: spices, gold, textiles,etc. and many of them are sold wholesale, so you had to buy in bulk. We just looked around, but maybe i'll be able to check out the textiles on our way back...the spices looked fabulous too.

Off to the airport...next entry will be from India

It's a small world

Today was pretty cool...G and K (our hosts...now our friends) took us to a little North Indian "cafe" which they frequent.  When we were discussing things we'd like to do, both S and I agreed that we would like to be part of the local culture, as opposed to being treated like tourists.  We wanted to know the hole-in-the-wall places that the locals raved about, ride public transport, etc.  This little eatery was perfect...small, cramped and delicious...unlimited dhal and rotis - you can't beat that for under $3/person.  S and I actually entertained the thought of opening something like this up in Seattle, as we haven't found anything close.  I want simple, authentic Indian food, without breaking the bank.  What i've found most of the time is rich, buttery, Americanized food that makes sure i have nothing left for a rainy day.  This place in Dubai rocked - we'll have to duplicate it stateside.

They also took us to see The Atlantis on Palm Jumeira.  So, Palm Jumeira is the island shaped like a palm tree, built on reclaimed land.  The "trunk" is lined with large buildings of condos waiting to be bought.  The "palms" consists of villas, each with its own private beach.  The Atlantis is a huge hotel on the tip of the "tree" - TAR fans might recognize it from last season...the one that had that giant waterslide, through a pool of sharks.  We have to pay money to see that slide...sheesh!  I guess they have to get out of debt somehow.

We were hoping to take our hosts out to dinner tonight, but during lunch, they got a call inviting all of us to an anniversary dinner.  Dinner was with a group of friends that were all part of their original community group, but had branched off since then.  It was nice to see that they still kept in regular contact and it was very apparent that their friendships had not suffered even though they now attended different churches.  It reminded me very  much of our own community group in the Rainier Valley and the friendships that have developed through that.  (I miss you guys)  The host couple wanted to celebrate their 15th wedding anniversary by treating all to dinner...we are so honored that they included us in their celebration.

SIDE NOTE: So, "R" from last night...the reason "R" and i became chums was because his best friend in high school, "SP", was in love with me / had a crush on me / liked me / whatever...it was high school, take it with a grain of salt.  SP was a little on the shy side, so he would never actually talk to me directly ...instead R became the go-between.  Again, think high school...either that, or i must have been incredibly intimidating, i guess some guys like that  =D  SP also went to the same school and church and i guess he really liked me, because R and i became great friends.  Fast forward 20+ years...

So, we're at this anniversary dinner (in Dubai) and i get to talking to our hosts/guests of honor about where in India we're from.  Someone mentioned Bangalore and i said, "yeah, i'd lived there for a few years too and went to such and such school and such and such church, etc, etc..."  So, the guy says, "Well, then you must know QP (SP's mom)?"  How random...i mean, of all the folks to pick out, he picks this family. 

I must have nodded, because before i knew it he was calling her up - she lives in Dubai.  So, he hands the phone to me and we start talking, 
"Oh L, how are you?" 
"Fine, Aunty, how are you?"  We start catching up, yadda, yadda, yadda...then she says,
"You remember, SP?  He lives here too...do you want to talk to him?"  What!?  SP is there!!! 
"Um..."  Not sure what i said next, i think something to the effect of, "yeah, i know, i was just talking to "R" yesterday..."
That seemed to pacify her.  I don't think he was at the same place, but i think she was going to give me his number to call him.  That would have been interesting.  I really don't know how to talk to the dude without "R" being there. 
We promised to stay in touch...i owe her an email, must get on that.

The rest of the evening went well without any more surprises...food was decent but the company was fantastic...what an enjoyable day!

Old friends...and reflections

So, a week before we left, i was "friended" on Facebook by an old schoolmate, "R". We lost touch for over 20 years and it was great to hear from him. Come to find out, he lives in Dubai and we were able to meet up for a few minutes this evening. He has a lovely family, wife and two adorable sons, the youngest is only a couple weeks younger than "B". After a couple minutes of the initial shyness they interacted well. It was surreal!


SIDE NOTE: We moved around so much that i have a whole different set of "friends" for each phase of life. I have "childhood friends" in Calcutta; childhood and high school friends in Bangalore; school friends also in IL and MO; "career" friends in Hyderabad, Waukegan, Beijing, Guangzhou; friends from my single days; friends from my married days; friends from my parenthood days...the list goes on and on... Due to such a "restless" lifestyle, i lost touch with folks once i moved to a different chapter of life - very few friends have "carried over" into these different phases. Of course, with the introduction of the internet, it's been much easier to keep in touch, which only happened after i was in college. Facebook has been wonderful for reconnecting me with so many people that i've sadly lost touch with.


I've known "R" since we were 10, went to the same school and church, so we basically spent most of the week together. To watch our kids play with each other was something i never thought i'd experience. Except for one guy, Joe, i do not regularly see folks that i've known since childhood. And Joe just had a baby girl a few months back, so our kids haven't had the chance to play together. But how cool is it to be friends with someone since you were a kid and then see your kids play together. "R"s kids and my kids might never become lifelong friends, but for that moment, it was awesome to see them play together.


"R" and I had been out of touch for so long, i wasn't sure how things would be...were we still friends or acquaintances? Would he remember our friendship the way i remembered it - with great fondness. He was one of my best chums and i hoped he still felt that way about me. The minute we said hi, it was like picking up after summer break (not 20+ years). I love those kind of friendships, the kind where time stands still when you're apart. Of course, we had other variables like our families, but it only added to the beauty of our friendship. It wasn't weird at all! We were one big happy group walking and talking and trying to mind our kids. I've missed our friendship, but now that we've reconnected, i can't wait for it to continue.

Church in Dubai

We attended the United Christian Church of Dubai this morning with "G", "K", and "P".

Christians in the UAE typically attend church on Friday, which is the Muslim day of worship as well. The weekend starts Friday and ends Saturday. Sunday is a work day. So instead of "Thank God, It's Friday", it's "Thank God, It's Thursday" here.

UCCD is located in a compound of Christian churches in Jebel Ali. The UAE government granted this compound for Christian churches to be built, so there are Catholic, Anglican, Orthodox, and Evangelical centers, each containing several worship halls that schedule multiple services by multiple churches.

Landing in Dubai

We arrived Dubai around 7:30 am....much earlier than expected due to a fast tailwind. Dubai International Airport is quite a remarkable place....still, for its size and splendor, it wasn't very crowded and seemed rather empty.

We met our hosts, "G" and "K", a couple who knew "L's" uncle Mamayya while they were in Oman. "G", "K", and their teenager "P" are extremely nice and hospitable people...we feel very blessed, especially since we've only known each other just through email within the past month.

Currently, the weather here is quite pleasant. It's breezy and cool, around 60's and 70's Fahrenheit. It's also quite overcast and hazy....the haze may be because of the wind blowing up sand. So it's a bit hard to see some of the city landscape, particularly the Burj Khalifa, the just-completed tallest building/structure in the world. "G" and "K" commented that it's rarely this hazy and overcast....usually it's cloudlessly clear. Just our luck.

After settling in, we took a long afternoon nap, then took a night drive around town. Lots of cranes and half-completed buildings to see. Some uncompleted buildings are suspended in uncertainty, due to the economic downturn that's hit Dubai hard of late. Still, there is much to marvel architecturally. We stopped by the famous Burj al-Arab hotel, one of the tallest, most expensive, and most opulent hotels in the world. We were more than content to play for free under its shadow in the sand (which, by the way, was the finest sand I've ever felt).

Flights

"B" has been eagerly asking about our upcoming trip every day since Jan 16. I'm looking forward to sharing it with her, now that she's able to comprehend the experience better.

We took off on JetBlue at 10 pm yesterday and arrived JFK at 6 am. The Emirates counter hadn't opened yet, so we were first in line in a rather sparse Terminal 4. Around 10 am, we were off again on an Emirates airliner, headed for Dubai.

The service on Emirates is renown for its excellence, and we soon found out why. What stood out was how they specially attended to the needs of our kids. We so appreciated it. The massive selections in their in-flight entertainment helped as well....not to mention the partially-full plane that allowed us to stretch out across multiple seats for restful sleep.

Overall, "B" and "J" handled the 17 hours of flight time quite well....and as a result, so did "L" and I.

Got the visa!

"L" got her 4-day visa to Dubai today! Thanks to Emirates and their partner CIBT, we got it only one day after applying online. CIBT sent the visa via email attachment which we just print and use. Another example of how the Internet makes things much easier.

Back to India!

Well, it's done....we're heading back to India! We just bought tickets today to fly the four of us to visit Thatha, Ammamma, and friends. We're flying JetBlue to New York City, and then Emirates from there to Hyderabad. Emirates allows us a free stopover in Dubai, which we hope to take advantage. "L" needs a visa, since she's traveling on an Indian passport. The rest of us don't, as we have US passports. Hopefully, getting "L's" visa will be a pain-free process.

Post-surgery pic

A lot of folks have kindly asked how "J's" been doing since his surgery back in December. We really appreciate the concern folks have shown for "J" so many months later. In retrospect, "J" recovered and bounced back quite quickly. Still, when one sees or hears about what the surgery involved, it's hard not to think the worst, even with all the reassurances we received from the wonderful staff at Children's that he'd make it through just fine, which he did.

So I think it behooves us to show an updated photo of "J", just so you can see how well he's doing now. This is one of our favorites, taken in July at a wedding we attended....

(photo courtesy of jliu)